Sunset in the Woods

“Life is a journey not a destination”

 “Strider” and Mary from the Mt. Williamson Motel in Independence, CA. picked us up from the Onion Valley road end parking lot at 12:30 pm as pre-arranged.  Emily and I were eager to go off the trail and into town hoping to satisfy our hunger for fresh food and the longing for a warm, comfy bed and a long, hot shower.  We could not stop dreaming or talking about homemade Mexican food. Homemade Guacamole and Chips!  The thought of them brought smiles to our faces.

Ice Cold Drinks and Fresh Coffee in a Special Mug.

Upon arrival, we received free beer or ice cold drinks as well as the keys to our room,  breakfast serving time, and offers to wash all our laundry (for a small fee).  Mary had hung special battery opperated colorful lanterns on our window in honor of my recovery from breast cancer and to welcome us.  Amazing!  We were given anything else we needed: hair shampoo and conditioner, razors, and clothes to wear while all our filthy clothes were washed.  We were happy motel dwellers.  Content.  The rooms were very clean and felt like a guest house in a home rather than a motel.  We loved this sweet oasis that nurtured our zero days and freedom from hiking with a spirit of excellence.  Who Knows? Maybe Doug and will buy this property someday or run a hiking hostel of our own someday?  We could hike to the John Muir Trail from here and back every day.  Zero Days are designed for resting and dreaming.  My dreams are waking up and I am feeling rested.

( photo courtesy of Emily E. Hundley)

Emily and I discovered a Taco Truck parked in front of an abandoned gas station and ordered amazing vegetarian burritos and Street Tacos.  Sadly, they had no guacamole. the cost of avocados just too pricey.  The storm seemed to follow us here and while sitting outside eating our lunch it began to thunder while lightning struck and flashed all around as the rain fell in torrents.

We took our lunch inside the abandoned gas station turned into dining room and enjoyed our first meal with the sounds of the storm surrounding us bringing the outdoors in through open doors and windows.

I celebrated the goodness and kindness of God.  We were strong, healthy,  safe, fed, warm, and comfortable.  We were able to rest and relax easily.  Mt. Williamson Motel and the staff there were wonderful.  Breakfast was simple, good fare: eggs, bacon, coffee, toast and they provided garden fresh peaches and homemade jam.  Doug arrived on day two, after our second lunch at the Taco Truck (yummy).  He brought enough resupplies of food and essentials to cover the three of us for our final ten days of hiking out of the Sierras via The High Sierra Trail.  Doug  will join us as we complete our hike. Doug’s support through resupply, driving, taking care of our pets and home has been invaluable. We could not have done what we did without him.  He is “THE BEST”!

Saying goodbye to Mt. Williams staff and friends

For our final ten days, our plan was to continue our journey back up and over  Kearsarge Pass.  There we would retrace our steps back to the John Muir Trail and detour onto the High Sierra Trail. A few days later we would exit to our car parked at the road end near Giant Forest in Sequoia National Park.

Emily would be going ahead of her older parents to freely hike with her swift unstoppable hiking legs and flying feet.  She planned to Climb Mt. Whitney and/or go to Lake South America and then backtrack to Kern Hot Springs for some zero days  while waiting for her parents to catch up to her.

A Side Note about transition.  Transitions are so hard for me.  I struggle with change. Transition.  I feel like I am in one now with Emily no longer hiking closely with me.  I leaned on her much in previous days for  encouragement and support.  She has been amazingly patient and I feel so thankful to have had her beside me.  She championed me to go beyond what I believed I could do.  I learned a lot from her enthusiasm and love for the wilderness.  I am already missing our girlie, silly, and fun times.  In her place,  my husband, Doug is hiking with me and leading the way as he usually does and this is good and fun but definitely different.

I am hiking back up Kearsarge Pass falling behind Doug on the trail and lost in my thoughts- daydreaming.  I miss the trail juncture and find myself hiking up, up, up, toward a waterfall that is off the designated trail.  Doug is far ahead waiting for me to show up, a little worried now that it is taking me so long to catch up to him.

I call out for Doug, scream for Doug,  and then have a melt down when I don’t hear him respond.  I am now crying and losing all my fight and strength on the trail and wondering why I did not just drive my car home instead of leaving it parked at the Mt. Williamson Motel?  I’m  not really lost and I can still see the parking lot below from my vantage point,  but I feel tired and like my purpose for this hike is fuzzy now. Zero days are now a thing of the past.

I am feeling embarrassed and mad at myself for doing all this extra, non-necessary, strenuous, uphill hiking.   I begin to backtrack downhill undoing my climb in minutes.

Transition.  The worst in me always comes out when I am in transition.  My focus gets disrupted and it seems like a fight to keep on living in Peace.  I feel lost. I was lost. No longer. I am seen. Found.  I breathe.  Focus.  My eyes…my heart…my soul…my voice… my mind set on peace again. Thankfullness washes over me like a fresh breeze.  I hike forward towards the new journey that awaits me with pleasure and anticipation.  Forgetting what is behind and moving forward sight unseen with a new garment of faith,  knowing, trusting that it will be good. One step in front of the other leaving transition and the anxiety caused by it behind me now. 

Alone Again Naturally and resting on the Trail after lunch

Doug and I meet up and hike up over Kearsarge pass and then camp at the lovely Kearsarge Lakes.

Kearsarge Lake

Clouds threaten to storm again but break up and blow away before the sun sets. Doug and I imagine that  Emily is probably camping close to Forrester Pass.  We know she is miles ahead of us on the trail. We wonder about what choices she will make on her journey.  It is good to be alone again with my husband and catch up on life in this beautiful place.  Memories of all our past hiking journeys come back to us and it is fun to reminisce about previous adventures on this trail.

 (At the Finish line of the John Muir Trail 1984)

(Family John Muir Trail Hike 2006)

The next day we hike as close to Forrester pass as we can.  We want to hike up passes in the early morning and this is officially our last pass on the John Muir Trail.  We made a decision to skip Mt. Whitney this year and adventure into new territory.  We camped in the same location we camped at last year.

Campsite with view before Forrester Pass

Last year, Doug carried most of my pack weight up Forrester Pass when he resupplied me and hiked with me for a few days on my solo trip.  Unfortunately this year, I would be carrying my entire fully weighted pack. I am pretty certain it is over 35 pounds.

When we awaken early, it is still dark. We begin our hike up Forrester with our headlamps on.  The coolness of the morning helps keep our pace steady.   We reach a steep, 100 foot snowfield on the trail. We were told that we could go around the  snow on a very sketchy, slippery trail created by people attempting to avoid the snow.  Doug makes the decision as others have to travel up  the snow

(This photo is courtesy of Emily E. Hundley)

I am not at all happy about this decision.  I actually hated every single step I made on this part of the trek.  It took all my strength, determination, and courage  to walk and keep on walking up this snow field carefully placing one foot and then the other foot into the boot prints of those who had hiked up this long field before me.  I walked past the large vacant black hole that went down deep  through the snow.  I secretly hoped my foot would not enter or make such a hole as I trudged heavily uphill with a fast beating heart and loud breaths.

I walked past the perfect large dragonfly that lay dead before me on the snow, while wishing I had my camera in hand to take a photo to capture that brief moment of beauty.  I shouted up to Doug way ahead of me now,  “Are we almost to the top?”  “NO…Keep going” he said in response.  The snow went on and on, forever it seemed.  I had to climb up impossible boulders at the end while on top of the world. This was the only way to get off the snow and back onto the trail. Not fun!

(This photo is courtesy of Emily E. Hundley)

Finally, we made it to the top of Forrester Pass.  I was not a happy hiker but was relieved that climbing was over. 

Exhausted now, we climbed down the pass trying to move fast to avoid the storm we could see approaching. 

Rain pelted us and we looked for a place to camp and found a place next to a barren mountain lake.  It was windy and rained all night making the air very cold and wet.  I slept little.  I lost my appetite for food and barely nibbled on a tortilla for breakfast. Eating olives alone was not much fun.  Saying goodbye to my beloved John Muir Trail was hard to do but I knew as I hiked that morning my heart was ready to part ways and I was already anticipating the new adventure that lay ahead.

We hiked to Tyndall Creek planning to go to the Kern Hot Springs to meet Emily via Wallace Creek which was still miles ahead. At the last minute, we decided to skip crossing the creek, and instead go back to the trail fork that led off the John Muir Trail and to less crowded trails.  We headed toward Lake South America and the Kern River.

After about two miles we saw two male hikers who reminded us of ancient mountain climbers hiking toward us.  We spoke to them briefly and they said they were “just wandering around exploring the area”.  The land looked brand new and views were spectacular. and untouched.  We headed toward the Kern River planning to meet Emily the following day at Kern Hot Springs on the High Sierra Trail.

After hiking many hours,  the trail brought us to a cattle gate that opened directly into Tyndall Creek again, only this was a wide and sketchy crossing that emptied into the Kern River.  I did not feel safe or comfortable crossing here.  Of Course, Doug  thought it was doable.   I was happy to talk him out of it because I saw a friendly deer that I thought was directing us to another crossing.

Yes! We found a safer crossing pointed out by the deer.  We were able to cross the creek and not slip into a waterfall that led into the wild, dangerous Kern River.

The remainder of the day was lovely. We saw a 4 point deer,a doe and her two fawns.  We ate lunch at a beautiful lake/pond. It was quiet bliss. Doug and I felt like we were truly lost and alone in the woods.  We camped for the night next to the Kern River where the ground was covered with a blanket of pine needles.  A sacred space.

On our way to the junction the next morning we passed a historical cabin in the woods. 

As we arrived at the sign for the High Sierra Trail we noticed a note left by Emily duck-taped to the sign.

After reading her note, I was convinced that she did not go to Mt. Whitney but decided to coincidently  go on the same trail we did.  She mentioned I would be happy to know she was alive and made it over the sketchy creek.  The note was dated two days before we arrived.  Did Emily cross the same sketchy creek we did?

I am eager to meet up with Emily and am already imagining her having zero days while safe and sound at Kern Hot Springs.  I can’t wait to hear about her adventures.

We crossed Wallace Creek.  It was the first crossing of more than five other hard crossings before we would reach Kern Hot Springs.

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Junction Meadow

Doug and I continued on to Junction Meadow and received another encouraging note from Emily.  After crossing five more challenging fast and overflowing creeks we made it to Kern Hot Springs.  A final note from Emily directed us to her campsite.  We were exhausted but thankful to have a place to set up camp, eat dinner together, and share olives again.  After 17 miles, we could not wait to soak our tired bones in the hot springs.  Doug and I ran off to the popular hot springs as soon as they were emptied of other hikers.   Heavenly sleep awaited us tonight.

Kern Hot Springs-photo courtesy of Emily E. Hundley

Catching up with Emily was delightful, we learned that she also chose to hike up the snowfield on her way up Forrester pass and she asked me “Did you see the dead dragonfly in the snow?”  I answered “Yes…did you get a photo?”  Yes…she got a photo!  I love dragonflies and really wanted the picture of that beautiful moment on my hardest hike.  When I delight in beauty, I always enjoy life more.

Emily said  she hiked to Lake South America.  She left us a note there that we never saw because we did not actually detour to the lake.  Emily met the same ancient looking men we spoke to near Lake South America,  only at the time, she was “lost”.  They helped her get back on the trail and had a lengthy conversation about climbing.  They were old school climbers who encouraged her interest and gave her advice about the best climbs in the area.  They pointed out Shepherd’s Pass and told Emily she had to climb it someday as it was the best in the area.    We found out that the   sketchy creek she spoke of in her note and crossed  was the very same one we crossed but she crossed it right at the gate in what looked like the most dangerous spot.  OMG! 

Sketchy Tyndall Creek Crossing-Photos courtesy of Emily E. Hundley

She told us she tentatively tested it out and put much thought into whether or not to cross and looked for better places to cross but did not find one.  In the end, using  a balance of courage and caution, she made it safely across.  I am thankful we did not come across her injured on our hike and that she made it safely to Kern Hot Springs for some zero days while waiting for her parents.   It was fun to compare notes and catch  up.  The next day we headed up and over Kaweah Gap.

Kaweah Gap

For the remainder of our journey, Emily went ahead and scouted out our campgrounds   and made sure to save a spot for our tent as well as hers. We camped at Big Arroyo Junction, Hamilton Lakes, and Mehrten Creek.

Hamilton Lake

We stopped for lunch at Bearpaw Meadow (a High Sierra Camp with a small store) and were able to purchase homemade chicken sandwiches and lemonade.  They were delicious and fueled the rest of our hiking day.

Finally, we headed out of the wilderness and High Sierra Trail at Giant Forest in Sequoia National Park.

The End of the Trail

This walk in the Sierras was a wonderful journey that grew me wildly in endurance.  Through all the joyous adventures and through the painful, difficult times,  I persevered, healed and survived.  I am leaving this seven week hike sensing that every day was abundant with teachable moments and that I have grown tremendously.

During these past weeks, I experienced personal and deep knowledge that God is not only with me and around me  but lives inside me.  I realized how much I am loved and cared for by the  Good Shepherd.   I have gained far more than I have lost. My heart and soul are more open to receive and release love, life, thankfulness, and hope.

This may be called the end of the trail but in many ways it is just the beginning.  I am going home with greater vision and will intentionally seek and hike forward into a hopeful future knowing it is going to be a good life.  I am holding on to LIFE with a tighter, loving, trusting, and grateful embrace.

General Sherman

It has been over two weeks now since I have returned home.  I have been resting and unpacking and rejoining life slowly.  Today I came across the one “art prayer card” that was never designated to anyone on the trail as I hiked.   I now believe it was meant for me.  It is really amazing to me  that as I post this blog,  this card just happens to come   into my hand again.  As I post both the front and back of this found art prayer card created  before I took my first step on this journey, I know I am blessed and I step out again.

FRONT of ART PRAYER CARD

BACK of ART PRAYER CARD

Golden Staircase 2017 was unbelievable and epic.   Now on to the next 4 passes.  Each and everyday for the next week, Emily and I either hiked to get to the base of an over 12, 000 ft. pass or we climbed  over it in the early AM to avoid the heat of the day.

Our first and toughest pass was Mather Pass.  We camped at lower Palisade Lake surrounded by people.  The lake is rather crowded and lacks privacy.  We rose at dark blessed by the incredible view of the stars.  We hiked with our headlamps to upper Palisade Lake and watched the sun start to rise in the direction of Mather.

I did not expect Mather to be as difficult as it was.  There were long snow trails to walk across. Additionally, the trail was washed out in various places from mud slides or rock slides.  I had to climb up steep hills of scree….slippery slope…to get up to where I could see trail as well as hoist myself up major boulders climbing thousands of feet high with a heavy backpack on to get up to trail hidden by rock slides.  It was very strenuous and slow going.  My body screamed with exhaustion.

At the top, I remembered that I was the first one over the pass last year and I had recited Psalm 23 for a gentlemen who came over after me who had experienced a significant loss the year before.

Psalm 23 has breathed over me this entire trip and I declared it aloud again in 2017 from the top of Mather Pass with a new understanding and thankfulness.

Here it is for you to enjoy in the new Passion Translation:

Emily and I celebrated by sharing our olives, and with  a brief photo shoot and then we started the long way down the pass headed toward the next pass-Pinchot.

On our way down we crossed the South Fork of the Kings River where earlier in the year a Pacific Crest Trail Hiker, “Strawberry” drowned.  That was a Solemn occasion and a reminder for us to be careful and patient with all creek crossings.  We rested here and filled our water containers so we would be free to camp anywhere for the night.

At the end of the day, we had a long climb  that sucked the strength out of us.  We were happy to find a sweet little private piece of ground to camp in not too close to water and the trail.  We spent hours laying on our backs watching God paint the clouds up in the sky for a beautiful sunset.

The next morning, we were up early with the sun and after eating our tortillas spread with almond butter we hiked  toward Marjorie Lakes and Pinchot Pass.  We met some Pacific Crest Trail Hikers on the path and one of them had hiked in the California desert last April with my inspirational PCT hiker friend Sunkist who was now approaching the Oregon Border.

There was a little bit of snow left on the trail as I walked up the pass and I could thankfully walk around it and had no major creek crossings.   I was very glad to have dry feet and not have to climb over rocks and piles of boulders.  As I got closer to the pass, I could see Emily already on top doing some yoga poses that were captured against the sky.  I smiled.  It is pretty amazing that my daughter is up here with me.  Unbelievably good.

At the top, we shared our olives and met a couple celebrating their 10th wedding anniversary.  We discussed our plan to hike more miles toward the swinging bridge at woods creek. We planned to camp in my secret camping spot near the old fur trader Shorty Lovelace’s old cabin hidden in the woods near this section of the creek.

It was a very long and beautiful day.  We had lunch and got water at a large still pond.  Met some amazing people each and every day going both SOBO AND NOBO on the John Muir Trail.  Slept surrounded by trees that guarded us like a circle of angels.

We woke early heading for upper Rae Lakes and with a readiness to position ourselves for Glenn Pass.  It rained on us as we approached middle Rae Lakes.  Lots of boulders to climb over and go around on the trail today.  Emily scouted out our campsite on a rock above the lakes.  It had an expansive view that settled on Painted Lady. Over friendly chipmunks competed for our food without getting even one bite.

The next morning we headed toward Glenn Pass. It was not easy.  Emily went at her faster pace ahead of me, writing notes on snow with arrows and directions.  Very Sweet.  The pass was long and high which meant thin air and difficulty breathing.  Several Boulder crossing places and some sketchy snow were in place.  We made it to the top safely.  Once there, we relaxed, enjoyed the view, celebrated and enjoyed interesting, fun, conversations with other hikers.  We made a quick decision at the top.  We would try for a second pass …Kearsarge that day as well.  Going over Kearsarge would lead us down into Onion Valley where we had planned zero days at the Mt. Williamson Motel in Independence, CA.  Could we do 2 passes in one day?  We were motivated to try our best.

Emily and I were surprised and delighted at the wonder of the  Kearsarge Pass Trail.  It was the cleanest, softest trail we had experienced on the JMT. We loved it.  Our enthusiasm for completing the pass increased with each step.  We were excited that we were so close to completing two passes in one day!

A storm began to build around us and as we hiked up closer to the pass, we became concerned.  The last place we wanted to be in a thunder and lightening storm was up on a pass that was the highest point around. Lightening always goes to the highest places.

We were planning to hurry over the pass before the storm, however, quite suddenly the skies opened up and began to flood us with rain and hail while lightening and thunder began to blast all around us.  We panicked.  We jumped into a bush near the trail like frightened deer and covered ourselves with my tent rainfly and rain jackets.  We waited the storm out in the bush, frightened, hugging close to stay warm and holding wet, dirty hands while sitting on a piece of plastic in mud.  Coldness settled on us.  We hoped the storm would end soon.

Finally after an hour or more, I heard a bird singing and we thought that might be a sign that the storming was over. Other hikers began to emerge from where they had hunkered down.  One hiker had a hefty garbage bag over himself to try to stay dry.  I guess we did the right thing and what most people did, hid in a bush or in whatever they could find.

We continued up the pass and met a couple celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary who had just come up from Mt. Williamson where we were headed.  Held our ritual celebration  time at the top by sharing our olives as usual with much joy and then we headed down the mountain for many miles to our last campground in the wilderness  before we would enjoy some days off.

Emily and I had to share her tent for the second time since Tuolumne Meadows as mine was completely soaked from our escapade in the bush earlier.  It rained all night but we stayed warm and dry inside Emily’s roomy tent.  In the morning it was still raining and we lingered in our sleeping bags until the sun peeked out of the clouds to warm things up.  Quickly we packed up our gear and headed down to Onion Valley and back to civilization.

We  arrived at our pickup spot with several hours to spare.  We dried our wet tents and gear in the warm sunshine  while waiting for our ride from “Strider” to the Mt. Williamson Motel in Independence.     We met and talked to a nice couple from Carlsbad located in San Diego County not too far from our hometown.  And now faced  several needed zero days in Independence…Here We Come!

Today’s Blog post marks the middle of my John Muir Trail Journey.  In reality, I am camped in Sequoia National Park experiencing my last night in the wilderness as I finish writing this with my cell phone.  I honestly tell you if not for the impact of this part of my journey on my life, I think I would have quit and given up.  My days were much physically harder than I can express.  I am so thankful that I have learned how to reach out and hold on to the strength, peace, and joy that is higher than I. When you don’t quit you win.

This is almost my fifth time hiking the JMT.  Doug and I spent a month out here after college graduations in 1984 and 1986. We completed half the trail in 2006 with our young teenagers. Last year I hiked the trail solo.  This year is my longest trek, 7 weeks out here with my daughter Emily.  My husband Doug is joining us on the front and back end and in-between to resupply us with food and to share in a bit of the hiking journey with us.  We could not have done this without Doug’s support. He is amazing!

Because I hiked the JMT solo last year, It has been difficult not to compare and contrast the two years a bit. Last year was the 100 anniversary of the National Parks. The weather was clear and perfect nearly everyday. I never got my feet wet. The trails were in good shape and I never faced any re- routes because of fallen trees, rock slides, or snow.

At the end of the trip, I was not ready to leave. My calling as a chaplain was revived on the trail and God used me in surprising ways to meet peoples’ spiritual  needs with a word of encouragement, a prayer for healing, wise counsel, or spiritual direction.  I felt as if my 20’s were restored physically in strength  and my medical physical proved I had excellent health.   After this solo trip, I felt a leading to return to the JMT the following year  and began to process and plan for this.

However, last December,  something showed up on my mammogram and further tests revealed breast cancer.  I went through biopsys, surguries and radiation to deal with the cancer finishing about a month before leaving for John Muir Trail journey 2017.
Now instead of going solo, my daughter who would be inbetween jobs for several months asked to join me.  My husband additionally wanted to join us with vacation time and to resupply us.

This year i was very aware of the trauma my body had gone through.  I had difficulty breathing going uphill and in high altitudes.   I was easily fatigued.  Daily, I gained physical strength,  but I had to endure this weakness for most of the trip and rely on faith and trust totally in God to help me press on and not give up. 
The JMT had a record harsh winter in 2016-2017. Stream crossings are high, lots if snow, trees fallen to climb over, rock slides to go around, bouldering, rerouting everyday.  People died in some of the stream crossings and many cancelled trips at various times because of trail conditions.

I hope with these comparisons you will see that 2017 has been very different than 2016.  I have no regret going but it has not been easy.  I feel thankful to be here despite my weaknesses.  I am journeying slow,  but sure, one step at a time. At the same time, I feel like I am stepping back into the celebration of the life I love with more.

I was happy to learn at Muir Trail  Ranch (MTR) that 2017 is the 100 year anniversary of the John Muir Trail!
I have known about MTR since the 80’s but for various reasons never went until last year. This place is heaven on earth to any backpacker who has reservations there.  Home made meals, a warm bed, hot spring baths and a wonderful, attentive, staff are amazing! This year Emily and I were able to schedule a massage as well as take about 5 bath soaks a day. We also played an amazing long game of scrabble safely in the screened library lounge during thunder showers.  
I was inspired to read again A shepherd’s  look  at Psalm 23 by W. Phillip Keller which happened to be in the library. The  main gold nugget I tucked away that sustained me during this trip is ” The Lord is my Shepherd…I lack nothing.”  I received, believed and experienced that when I relinquish my rights to own my life in favor of my creator owning me, all my needs are taken care of. I am provided for, protected, directed, strengthened, helped, and blessed with the loving, peaceful presence  of the Shepherd.

I shared this book with 90 year old Ms. Suzy who has been coming  to MTR for over 30 years. She had never read it and showed much interest and said she would read it.   She knew the former owner who was a cook at MTR years ago and whose name was written in the book.

One man Emily and I hiked with also stayed at MTR. As we said our goodbyes, I handed him an art- prayer card   and told him God loved him and shared an encouraging word.   It turned out he was a recent believer and was very encouraged by the gesture.

Doug hiked into the MTR with a resupply for Emily and I to cover the next ten days.   He stayed with us for the three nights and helped us firm up our itinerary as well as for support and to explore some of the wilderness in the area dayhiking.

After our zero days at MTR both Emily and I were loaded with ten days of food and the associated increase in pack weight. We anticipated going over five high (10,000- 13,000 ft) passes in the days ahead, including climbing up the infamous “Golden Staircase” ( 2 miles straight up and over 900 ft. altitude gain) on our way to Mather Pass.  
Our first  day hiking on the trail again was the day of the Solar Eclipse. Emily had special glasses and lenses so we could view and photograph the event.  Later in the day, I was delighted to rediscover Muir Rock along the trail with the year 1917 inscribed on it. Happy 100 years JMT!

Emily and I hiked many miles before camping at one of our favorite campgrounds along a river. We celebrated being on the trail again sharing our bags of olives and sipping a little bit of wine.

Next day, We walked through beautiful Evolution Valley and camped for the night in a quiet horse camp I discovered the year before.  
Muir Pass was ahead. We got an early start the next day so we could hike as close to the pass as possible which would enable us to make the climb early before the heat of the day and the possibility of afternoon storms.  We camped at Wanda Lake. A storm came through after dinner and rain, thunder, lightening and hail the size of gumballs pounded on our tents whitening the ground outside for over an hour.  It was loud blasting on the mountain peaks surrounding us. I was a little scared and sang songs until it stopped.

Emily and I climbed the pass in the morning.  I had a vision on the way up while praying and worshipping.  I saw the Lord my Shepherd pick me up and hand me over to the Father to be carried on His shoulders up the pass.  I felt so loved and it was fun as I had the experience of bouncing and skipping up the path. I broke out of the vision and Muir Hut was before me. I had made it to the top.  The memory of this vision  and revisualizing it has helped me get up every pass since.

Emily  and I enjoyed being the first ones over the pass.   We celebrated by sharing our bag of olives (oloves) and exploring the Muir hut.

The hike down was much more challenging. There were lots of snowfields to navigate, bolders to climb and obstacles to tackle. It was strenuous but we pushed through slowly, and cautiously completing the entire pass in more hours than usual. 

We camped at Grouse Meadow in Emily’s spot she camped at in 2015 during her own JMT solo hike.  The next day we were feeling the anticipation of gearing up both physically and mentally for the “Golden Staircase” that was our gateway to Mather Pass.  The “Golden Staircase” has a reputation. It is about two miles straight up gaining over 900 feet in elevation from start to finish. To most JMT hikers it is the most dreaded part of the hike. Both going up or down is brutal.

Emily and I woke before dawn to try to get to the ” Golden Staircase” early to beat the heat of the day. It was very sunny and probably the hottest day we had experienced to date.  We stopped at a creek to refill and purify our water. While doing this task on the trail a guy hiked toward us wearing a backpack while holding  a bear can in his hands in front of him. This was an unusual sight.   Emily asked, ” Why are you holding a bear can?”  He told us he was helping a friend who had to leave the trail because of blisters by carrying her stuff to the ranger station.

A short while later, I walked in the direction of the Golden Staircase singing songs of praise, strengthening myself for what was ahead.   Emily was already out of sight ahead of me up the trail.  I began the climb up the staircase gentle at first, and saw three people coming down before me and asked,  “Are you the gal with blisters?  She nodded yes. I told her that I often pray for people and animals on the trail and God heals them sometimes. Could I pray for her? She said “yes.” I knelt before this gal and laid hands on her feet and prayed. I spoke encouraging words over her and she said she felt better.  We all talked and by the end of our time, I experienced new friendship with Adam, Rochel, and Elizabeth.  They prayed for me.  After our little prayer party on the trail, we said goodbye and I continued on up Golden Staircase.

My pack was heavy, I  was already sweating from the record heat day. I began thinking of Jesus, my Savior,  and what the weight of the cross must have felt like as he walked the road to Calvary.  My thoughts were broken by a voice behind me calling out “Lauralyn….Lauralyn”.   It was Adam the young man who was helping his friend with blisters.  He told me that since leaving me he was so blessed and felt a renewal of his faith.  He said God put a burden on his heart he could not shake off or resist.  He felt that he was to carry my pack for a while up the Golden Staircase.

I was stunned and at first refused but then relented as I felt this was a special miracle and gift from God.  As I continued walking up the trail I had many opportunities to share with others this amazing gift. People looked at me without a pack like I was crazy as they assumed I was day hiking up this horrible trail.  They wanted to know  “WHY?”  I would explain and share my story about Adam and we would be amazed together.  It was a truely unbelievable act.
Later, Emily was sitting at the top waiting for me and a little worried. She saw someone who looked like me but they did not have a pack on so it couldn’t be mom she decided.   She asked the next guy who came up if He had seen her mom and described me.  Adam grinned, and said “oh Lauralyn, yes she’s coming. I’m carrying her pack! ” Emily was surprised and after making sure I was okay thanked Adam telling him she was sure she would hear the story later. Adam left my pack at the  top with Emily  and then returned back down the trail.  As we met up again, I felt thankful and encouraged as we took a selfie and gave each other a quick  hug before Adam pretty much ran down the mountain to rejoin his friends.

I really don’t know if  I would have made it up Golden Staircase that day and go on to lower Palisade  Lake  for camp the night before Mather Pass if Adam had not offered to hold my pack.   For me, this gesture was a miracle.

As I continued to finish my trek up the staircase weightless, I again thought of Jesus carrying the cross and pictured Simon coming along side to carry the weight for a time.  Other friends were there as well, cheering Him on, simply being there.  That is where my strength comes from. The love and support of friends, strangers, family members, God, simply being there.  Thank you.

Today I am actually completing this 7- week journey in the Sierras but writing about the middle. It is an interesting advantage for a writer. I can give you my reader’s a sneak peek at what is ahead. I did not quit though tempted to quit at many junctures.  I grew in endurance that will accompany me as I continue to go forward.  I learned to trust that the Lord is my Sheperd and not only cares for me but preserves, protects, guides, heals, and directs me. I also found truth in my experience of God being good all the time even if it does not look like it. Yes. God is good!  Every glimpse of glory in people, visions, experiences, plants, flowers, insects, trees, blue sky, stars, rocks, clouds, mountains, wind, rain, thunder, lightening, mountains, trails, rivers, and birds are captured in my heart and I am forever grateful. ❤️❤️❤️

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The bus drive to Mammoth was fun and Emily and I made friends with a couple from the east coast who were going to start the JMT from Mt. Whitney. We hope to run into them on the trail. I shared with this couple that I was a Chaplain and prayed for people on the trail and sometimes saw God heal.

Later, as I was getting my backpack out of the luggage compartment of the bus with the bus driver’s help, He said,”My knee… I tweaked it and can’t really hike right now.” I said,” You heard my conversation about prayer, do you want me to pray for your healing?” He said yes and I prayed for our bus driver and he quickly jumped back up on the bus full of hope and I believe healed! Praising God for that one.😊

Emily and I walked the brief way to the car we left parked nearby and then headed for our hotel anticipating  fresh food, coffee, jacuzzi, and a zero day. Our room was not ready when we arrived so we went to the amazing Stellar Cafe for breakfast. 

As I ate a delicious breakfast burrito and large vanilla latte,  I began checking out the trail conditions on the John Muir Trail 2017 Facebook  page.  The first post was about a mama wanting information from anyone who knew alternatives to the somewhat treacherous log crossings at Rush Creek. She was hiking while carrying her one year and wanted to find a place to safely cross the creek by foot.  My interest perked because I thought: “This has to be the mom and baby Emily and I saw at Donahue Pass last week”.

As I read further there were a lot of ugly voices crying out “child endangerment” and such and judging this mom harshly for having a child out in the wilderness.  My passions rose up and I responded with words of encouragement for this mom who was doing  for her daughter what I did for my daughter when she was a young child and look at us now hiking the JMT together!  Emily and I had an interesting discussion about these posts aggreeing that early wilderness outdoor experiences were beneficial.

As I continued reading, I noticed that the Mama “Monica” had responded to the harsh unfounded words.  I started reading her post. About halfway done, I read that she was in Mammoth for a zero day and I thought to myself that I ought to keep an eye out for her.  I then hear a baby’s cooing voice behind me and turn around in my seat to behold that right before me was the actual mother who I met last week on Donahue Pass and whose current Facebook  post I was in the middle of reading.  Monica and her baby were seated right next to me!  We had great conversation and I shared with this Mama what I felt and read my post over her to encourage her.    So what do you think of think of this “child endangerment” photo?

After resting and feasting two nights in Mammoth, we drove to Lake Mary and the Duck Pass alternative to getting on the John Muir Trail. Our family loves this pass and has years of memories hiking it together.

Emily and I planned to camp at Pika Lake which is next to Duck Lake on the other side of the pass.  This day Emily discovered two cabins that were built in the 70’s by the “Trout Slayer” a guy who  lived in his homemade cabins year round to catch trout. 

The next morning we rose with the sun and all was wet and damp. On the trail again, we met several JMT Ladies as we hiked to Purple Lake.

Next morning we hiked to Virginia Lake where we had to ford two knee deep creeks, and then went down into Tully Hole.  Tully Hole is the kind of place I imagine Butch Cassidy and the Sundance  Kid would have hung out.

Finally, we crossed the bridge over the river and hiked up a long hot trail to Squaw Lake just before Silver Pass.   Thankfully, it was not too crowded with other hikers and those camped nearby were friendly. The star viewing and Milky Way were spectacular! 

Emily and I woke before dawn, to make our assent up the pass before the heat of the day.  Our final assent involved climbing straight up snow for about 25 feet. Emily thought that was fun. Not so much fun for me.

 After the pass, we hiked all day down to a much lower elevation to the Ferry Pick up for Vermillion Valley Resort located on Lake Edison. We were fortunate the resort  had the “boathouse” available for two nights and a hotel like room for a third night.  The rooms all faced Lake Edison with amazing views. At VVR we had good food and drink as well as laundry facilities and a shower. We met some amazing people and made new friends.

We received much needed refreshment.   One of my waiters a former Pacific Crest Trail Hiker, Ogre, shared this John Muir Quote I love but had never heard before. 

After this respite, we got a ride to the Bear Ridge Trail, and began our trek back to the top of Bear Ridge  where we would reconnect with the JMT. Our destinations for the next three days: Bear Creek, Marie Lake, Selden Pass, and then more zero days plus a resupply and meetup with Doug at Muir Trail Ranch.  

The shuttle dropped us off at the road to Agnew Meadows campground and trailhead.  An anxious voice whispered rumors throughout the bus that fires and smoke from lightening in Tuolumne Meadows was spreading  about the area. There was reported smoke on the trails that led to many people panicking and changing  their plans at the last minute.  Emily and I departed the bus alone. I felt faith and confidence that the air I breathed would be healing and restorative. No doubts.

We took “The River Trail” to meet up with the JMT planning to camp at Thousand Island Lake. A couple coming down on the trail were leaving the wilderness, cancelling their trip prematurely because of fear smoke might effect asthma health concerns.  

Although we could see smoke in the distance we were not breathing it.  We climbed the trail up and out of Mammoth continuing to walk in clean air throughout our trek. 

After lunch, it started to drizzle and lightly continued to rain on us.  We met other friendly hiker’s on the trail. One woman was helping her uncle check off a bucket list item: hiking the JMT. 

An older couple was full of energy as they and their supplies had been dropped off by pack horses. The elderly man was doing his stretches vigorously in a meadow off to one side. He asked me if I knew the hiking dance step?  He quickly showed me a way to step up the trail with less fatigue.  Hiking dance step! That was a sweet gift. Just what I needed so I could dance my way up to the top of the trail. 

By the time Emily and I arrived at Thousand Island Lakes, the rain stopped. We made camp, collected  water and filtered it clean, cooked and ate dinner and rested after our 10+ mile hike.   We planned to stay here two nights which would give us a zero day to explore, photograph, write, and get used to the high altitude.  We were over 10,000 ft. high. Lots of other people were camping here. It felt a little bit crowded. The afternoon showers that came and went seemed to be buiding up each day. Slept peacefully unable to see the stars because of cloud cover. 

We started hiking at sunrise heading down toward Rush Creek on our third day.  We had two sketchy log crossings over Rush Creek. They were high up over the fast, rushing waters.  It took  a great deal of concentration and courage to trust our feet and just focus intently on putting one foot in front of the other as we crossed the creek on a narrow log.  

We soon settled  into a sweet camping spot and entered our tents just as rain began to fall.  Several  hours later during the night, we were awakened  abruptly by a middle aged man announcing : “Hey are you in there? I’m camping here! It’s been a 22 mile day for me and I am stopping here!”  I was irate.  He woke us up and intruded on our little space with miles  of vast places around to make his own camp in the middle of the night.  He did not ask permission but just camped rudely on top of two women breaking roughly into our quiet and privacy. This was very annoying and creepy to us.  So  now where do we go to the bathroom? Some people are so entitled, discourteous, selfish, and rude on the trail.   Sorry for that rant, it is just one of my pet peeves on the trail.  If you are going to be out here, treat others with love, respect, and courtesy.  Manners are still important in the backcountry. ​

​After the zero day at Rush Creek the rain stopped.  Emily and I woke before dawn and set out with our headlamps to conquer Donahue Pass.  I lost the trail in the night and using my GPS for the JMT forgot that we were actually going opposite from the way I had originally set up my GPS.  I got turned around and ended up finding myself at one of our former log  crossings over Rush Creek. Dawn was just beginning to break forth. Thankfully, I realized my error and headed back in the right direction finally catching up to Emily who was waiting for me by the side of the trail just before the final climb up to Donahue Pass. 

​​We walked up the pass at sunrise needing to remove  our boots and ford a few swollen creeks of icy cold water in our sandals.  The wild flowers along the trail and very few snowy patches  were a welcome sight. After a few photos on top we headed down. 

A ranger was seated next to the trail greeting people and taking a survey as well as checking wilderness permits. He was young with reddish hair and freckles sprinkled over his fresh,  clean face. We answered his questions and I noticed He was reading a book of poetry by Mary Oliver, one of my favorites. I commented  to him about this and he responded, “Would you like me to read you a poem? How about “Yes.. No” by Mary Oliver? 

Here it is for you to enjoy as well.

Yes…No by Mary Oliver

How necessary it is to have opinions.

I think the spotted trout lilies are satisfied standing a few inches above the earth.

I think the serenity is not something you just find in the world like a plum tree holding up it’s white petals.  

The violets along  the river are opening  up their blue faces like small, dark lanterns.

The green mosses being so many are as good as brownie.

How important it is that we walk along not in haste but slowly looking at everything and calling out “Yes” “No”.

The swan for all it’s pomp in his robe of glass and petals is the only one to be allowed to live on the nameless pond. 

The cat briar is without fault.

The water thrushes among the sloppy bank are going crazy with happiness.

Imagination is better than a sharp instrument.

So pay attention. This is our proper and endless work.

 I tape recorded Ranger Adam reading the poem. My eyes teared and I felt deeply moved or rather touched in the depths of my soul.  This was a Holy moment for me. 

As we walked away with the sounds of the poem still ringing in our hearts I remembered:  Ranger Adam was the ranger who gave me my wilderness permit when I started the JMT last year in Yosemite.  It seemed like destiny to meet again. 

Shortly after leaving Adam behind  and traversing two snow fields on the way down Donahue pass making our way closer to Tuolumne Meadows,  Emily and I stopped to talk to another mother and daughter hiking the JMT together. However, this daughter was still an infant about one years old and hiking in a pack covered by mosquito netting on her parent’s back.  This child was overflowingly joyous, cooing, and smiling very obviously enjoying every moment from it’s perch above mama.   Emily and I both related to this sight knowing it was one we both experienced in the past that led to this present occasion of hiking on the JMT together.   This mama showing concern for her child, asked us about trail conditions and we let her know of the conditions ahead and commented about how happy we were to see a child so young enjoying  this beauty and being outdoors on the JMT (note: there is more to this story in my next blog). 

In a few more hours  and after many miles we made it down the mountain to the beginnings of Lyell Canyon.  A storm  was building up and we already felt large, wet drops of water on our exposed skin as we hurried to set up camp.   We jumped into our tents just before the monsoonish downpour began  with intense, loud, thunder and lightning echoing up and down the canyon.  The angels were bowling  again and getting strike after strike.  We slept without dinner. Several hours later,  I woke feeling like I was floating and  quickly noticed water had begun pouring  into my tent from some sort of flash flood. The rain had stopped. I had to pee very badly.  I was able to remove my belongings from where the water was pouring in somehow keeping most of them dry.   

 Half asleep, I jumped out of my tent and grabbed most of my gear and headed toward Emily’s tent begging for entrance. Thankfully,  Emily let me sleep in her roomy tent that night but she has not let me live down the fact that in the morning there was no evidence of the flood and she insisted I made my story all up and exaggerated it so I could sleep with her in her tent.  (I have to admit, I loved sleeping in the same room with my daughter once again.)

The morning weather was glorious and we quickly packed up our wet gear to set our sights on a town thankful that Doug was able to reserve what was probably the last reservations available at the lodge for the weekend for us.  We hiked happily toward our destination looking forward to another zero day, with lodging, food, showers and sunshine to dry out all our stuff.

Eating meat and vegan burgers at the grill was a treat. We shared a bench outside the post office with the local icon, home bum “Woofie” who read a book, chatted little and listened intensely while eating her bags of miniature “Chips Ahoy” cookies.  She  told us she had spent every summer in the Meadows since about 1990.  She was from Scotland.

 We had friendly conversation with two climbers from Romania who shared a 37-year friendship that was cemented through their climbing adventures  all over Yosemite Valley.

Next day we ate dinner at the lodge family style meeting a family who had been coming to the lodge since the early 1900’s. The elderly man reported to me that He was actually in the valley in WWII when Hiroshema  was bombed and then a week later the war was declared over. His description of how the news quickly spread through the valley with cheers, bell ringing,  whistles and word of mouth was an amazing first hand account to hear.   It was interesting to me that this week was coincidently the anniversary of these historical events.  

After a good sleep in a bed, we planned our exit stategy, and readied ourselves and gear for a shuttle and bus ride at 7 AM.  Our kind shuttle driver had mercy on us in the early hour and gave us a complimentary coffee. 

So Thankful for small gifts like coffee, flowers, babies, poetry readings, hiking dance step, restful, restorative sleep, showers with soap, good food, friendly people, family, transportation, and stories. God is truely GOOD all the time.

Doug, Emily, and I awoke early in the Yosemite Valley Backpackers’ camp and made way for Glacier Point.  There was a haze that softened the view of our first pictures snapped quickly and then we were on are way.  

After about a mile I met “Stuart”. We chatted a while and I encouraged him with a prayer art card I made in advance that seemed to be made just for him and he was encouraged to “press on and overcome without limitations”.

 We continued on to our first campsite after passing a campsite full of people that gave us a friendly wave.  We met some of these people the next day as we crossed knee deep river crossings together.

I noticed this first day that I had the most difficulty breathing uphill as if there was a hole in my left lung and extreme fatigue early afternoon.   I believe this is a side effect from my recent radiation treatment. I felt discouraged but fought against it. 

Day two we woke early to head toward Merced pass wanting to get as close to  the pass as possible before the rising heat of the day.

  In late afternoon,  I reached a point of exhaustion and had to stop. Doug and Emily went ahead to find a place to camp with the intention of returning to carry my pack and help me get to the camp.

While I rested, waiting Doug’s return, the couple we met earlier at the creek crossing came upon me as they returned from their day hike.  They reported that Doug and Emily had found a campsite and would be coming back for me soon. 

I felt inspired to give one of my prayerfully made art cards to the woman. It portrayed that she was a sweet warrior.  We spoke  for a while and the woman was receptive to my prayer. I then shared that the reason I was needing my family’s help was that I had recently finished radiation treatment for breast cancer and had been experiencing some unexpected breathing problems and fatigue from it. 

The woman told me she had Breast Cancer 12 years ago and could not hike for six months after her treatment and even longer with a backpack. She encouraged me and told me I was amazing to be out hiking with a backpack so soon after the completion of Radiation.

  Wow!  I felt encouraged and determined to fight this battle. She was a sweet warrior woman  indeed who encouraged me in my battle to rise up and keep rising up

Next day we passed through Moraine Meadow the place with billions of mosquitos! Thank God for deet and netting over our hats and faces.  We ate lunch on a cliff overlooking Moraine Meadows freer of mosquitos but astounded by the “buzz” of all the  billions sounding loudly in our ears.
This day I discovered our sweet campsite off trail. It looked and felt like one of the ancient places Native Americans set up camps with running creeks and secret waterfalls.  I love this land that seems full of places to explore and discover if we ever made a return trip here.​

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Day four we again woke early to head for Fernandez pass. Each day I was feeling stronger and dealt with the breathing issues by singing praises and songs of thanksgiving. I made it up the beautiful pass full of wildflowes and stair gateways and memories of overcoming this pass in my early twenties with friends. At the top, we ate lunch and tried to come up with a plan to navigate our way down the snow covered summit.

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We ended up hiking cross country.  At one point I fell, almost slamming my head against rock which could have been disasterous. I was stunned but unhurt sensing I had angels watching over me. We continued on carefully traversing a large snow field that was very steep. Using our GPS we were able to find the trail and a new campsite for the night at the nearby junction. 

Up at sunrise the next morning we set our aim toward  an abandoned mine. A washed out bridge kept us from discovering the mine and we made camp nearby.  Hiking was beautiful, quiet forests, and meandering gently on softly trodden earth. Flowers were smiling, birds singing, and sunlight flickering in and out through tree branches. 

Then next day we awakened with hearts and sights set upon Hemlock Crossing. From photos this place seemed like it could be a fun place to swim and try out the “water slide” rock that ended in a pool. This was a strenuous 15 mile day. We experienced several knee deep water crossings that required our stopping and exchanging boots for water shoes.  The trail had not been cleared this season and there were many fallen trees we had to go around or climb over and go under. At higher elevations we trudged over some snow patches. Emily thought she was lost at one point and then found…the reuniting sweet.  We remembered our backpacks have whistles built into a strap that we decided to try and use to signal how far away we were from one another.

On the way to Hemlock Crossing  we climbed up to “Surprise Saddle” and drank in the most amazing view I have ever seen. Definitetly a resting place. 

 We could hear the sounds of rushing water and feel the vibration of power before we arrived to Hemlock Crossing.  There would be no refreshing swimming for us. Anyone attempting  to swim or slide in this water would be dead within minutes.  The raging beauty of the water was breathtaking to watch.  We were awestruck. 

The next morning we attempted to move foward toward our final destination of Mammoth but were turned back at slide creek which was whitewater, waist deep, waters roaring above a waterfall into Hemlock crossing. We came to a unanimous decision to turn back. We retraced the 15 miles back to Granite creek and camped there for the night. 

In the AM hours we walked to a campground and the host there drove us to the nearby ranger station. There we encountered boy scout trail angels who drove Doug to Fresno to rent a car. Emily and I encountered our own trail angels who drove us to Oakhurst to await Doug. Doug met us in Oakhurst in a rental car and we drive back to Glacier Point to get our vehicle we had previously left there. From Glacier point returned to Fresno with the rental car. Finally we all drove back to Mammoth and crashed about 2 am in a hotel where Emily and I would prepare for the next leg of our hike back to Yosemite on the John Muir Trail.  What a wild, crazy 24 hours -bringing this trip to a close and opening up the way to week two.